Pour Decision #19: A Taste of Apulian Cuisine

Ricci Osteria in Milan, by Chef Antonella Ricci

There are so many layers to Italian food, and to Italian culture. Depending on the region, or even the individual cities, there are specific delicacies and iconic dishes whose origins we often overlook as they travel beyond borders and seas.

Ricci Osteria in Milan, a restaurant that transports you to Puglia (poo-lee-uh) with some of the region’s most authentic flavors, stirred that realization in me. I’ve had orecchiette more times than I can count, but I’d never stopped to consider that it could be a cornerstone of a region’s identity.

This was my first time experiencing true Apulian cuisine, and I’ve learned it’s full of rich, decadent flavors and intentional pairings that liven your taste buds. Puglia is a coastal region in southwestern Italy, the heel of Italy’s boot, far from the cities most tourists flock to, and its cuisine reflects both its agricultural roots and its seaside proximity.

The cuisine at Ricci Osteria traces its roots to Al Fornello da Ricci, the acclaimed family-owned restaurant founded by Chef Antonella Ricci’s family in Ceglie Messapica, a small city in Puglia, in the mid-1960s. Together with her husband, the equally accomplished Chef Vinod Sookar, she brought this legacy of refined Apulian cooking to Milan, infused with ideas inspired by years of travel and global culinary influence. Today, Ricci Osteria runs under the skilled hands of resident chef Francesco Bordone, who serves every dish with warmth and pride.

“We chose the word Osteria because authentic Puglian food was born in osterias,” explained Chef Antonella Ricci. An osteria is a local destination, typically offering a short and simple menu that emphasizes local ingredients. At Ricci Osteria, that tradition continues. Since opening in 2022, the restaurant has contributed to Milan’s hospitality scene with ingredients sourced from Apulian producers, simple recipes, and authentic decor.

Upon arriving at Ricci Osteria, we were greeted by Chef Francesco Bordone. His aura radiated confidence, enthusiasm, and a deep love for what he does. He led a demonstration for Marco and I to learn the craft of making orecchiette by hand and made it look effortless. The recipe calls for 200 grams of semolina flour and enough cold water to form a dough. Once combined, the dough rests in the refrigerator for one hour. After resting, the dough is rolled into a snake-like shape, then cut and flipped over the top of your thumb to form its signature shape: a small ear, which inspired the name orecchiette, meaning ‘little ears’.

We watched in awe as Chef Bordone moved through the process with ease. “A lot of love, practice, and passion,” he said, explaining that all the pasta on the menu is handmade daily. I asked if he had any idea how many orecchiette he makes in a day, and he laughed. The answer is simply too many to count.

Shortly after the demonstration, we were seated at our table. The restaurant echoed the style of a historic countryside farmhouse, featuring shades of sage green, soft whites, and warm tans. Linen bell-shaped pendants scattered the ceiling above us while a variety of patterned towels traditionally used in pasta-making lined the walls. The space was warm and familiar, elegant and charming, with a nod to Salento through a colorfully lit archway leading into the main dining room.

Although there are no cocktails on the menu, the team at Ricci Osteria has curated a thoughtful selection of Apulian wines that highlight the region’s distinct flavors. We opted for a bottle of white wine from the Varvaglione winery in Leporano, made entirely with Fiano grapes from the Salento area. It was fresh and balanced, with a light finish and notes of citrus, pear, and elderflower.

Thank goodness I had Marco with me, who shared in great detail the history behind some of the dishes on the menu, as his parents are from Puglia. This meal felt like home to him, and I was so glad we could share the experience together.

We had the opportunity to taste four impeccable dishes, accompanied by a savory amuse-bouche and airy house made bread served with Corato olive oil from Bari, another city in Puglia. The amuse-bouche featured three bite-sized bread balls mixed with cheese and mint, served in a warm, classic gazpacho. The flavor-packed warmth of the gazpacho added a bright acidity that paired beautifully with the minty finish of the mini croquettes.

Of course, we had to try the fresh orecchiette we had watched Chef Bordone make. It arrived in a traditional Apulian preparation with green peas presented two ways, puréed and whole, along with bursting confit cherry tomatoes that added a gentle bite. Toasted breadcrumbs added a hint of crunch, while the dish was finished with the savory salinity of anchovy, both in the crumb and in a sauce made with anchovies from Cetara, a coastal town in Salerno. The orecchiette is cooked for roughly six minutes because it is so fresh. This dish was featured in The New York Times article, “The 25 Essential Pasta Dishes to Eat in Italy,” and I am grateful I had the chance to confirm that it absolutely belongs on that list. If you ever find yourself in Milan, it is a must-try.

Next, we savored the Gocce di ricotta, or ricotta drops, which were lightly dusted in semolina flour and served over a bed of tangy zucchini cream and truffle oil. They were topped with crispy chunks of pancetta and delicate zucchini chips, creating a beautiful garnish. The first bite caught me off guard; not because of the flavor, which was delightful, but because of the texture. The ricotta retained a slight firmness, even after being boiled. Our kind waiter explained that the ricotta is whipped before filling the pasta, which is then cooked very briefly. When the pasta rises to the surface of the boiling water, it is done.

Both pasta dishes were completely unique, with meticulously assembled flavors that came together like pieces of a puzzle. I wish I could have packed them up and flown them back to New York. My mom would have loved them both.

For entrées, Marco and I shared the Bombette (pork bombs), a traditional Apulian recipe typically served at Apulian barbecues and, most notably, on Pasquetta (Little Easter), the day after Easter, along with the slow-cooked beef chuck, which was my personal favorite dish of the evening.

The Bombette is rolled pork stuffed with pecorino cheese and burrata cream, served with the most delicate roasted golden potatoes, seasoned with fresh thyme. These potatoes actually melted in your mouth like butter. They offered the best flavor I’ve ever experienced while consuming potatoes, which is traditionally not the star of a plate. The dish was finished with silky stracciatella fondue, alongside expertly placed swipes of the warm gazpacho served with the amuse-bouche.

The beef chuck, which is the collar or shoulder of a pig, is slow-cooked for 11 hours and pulls apart like a short rib, but with unmatched tenderness. Not only did the meat itself have a beautiful flavor, it was coated in a thick Primitivo di Manduria wine reduction that added deep, complex notes and elevated the dish to another level. It was served with a sunchoke purée, which to me tasted a bit like sunflower seeds, which I love, and Italian purple radish chips for a splash of color. The beef chuck was the undeniable star, and I wish I could experience that flavor for the first time again. It is ingrained in my palate, and I couldn’t possibly deign to forget it.

Do you think we left without a sweet treat? Absolutely not. Even though we were wildly full, we ordered Petit Fours, which were almond-flavored biscotti, filled with a cherry jam and dusted with powdered sugar. The nuttiness of the almond and tartness of the cherry packed a punch and made for the perfect bite with the sweetness of the sugar. The Italian name is Biscotti di Ceglie, which translates to biscotti from Ceglie Messapica.

I couldn’t have asked for a better, more authentic experience. The generosity and knowledge of the Ricci Osteria team were wonderful. This restaurant deserves more recognition for the scrumptious cuisine they are so passionately sharing with Milanese locals and the lucky tourists who find it. Thank you so much to Chef Francesco Bordone, we tasted your love for cooking in every bite, and your talent is unparalleled. To the staff, thank you for walking us through the experience and making it unforgettable. Thank you to Marco and Honor Consulting for facilitating this visit, because it is one I will cherish forever.

It wouldn’t be a Pour Decision without my traditional closing, so here goes nothing: book the flight, pack your appetite, and secure a reservation at Ricci Osteria. Trust me, it’ll be amore at first bite. This small taste of Puglia was one for the books; rich in history, filled to the brim with passion, and served with a heaping side of love. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in Italy, it’s that a shared meal can bridge cultures, spark connections, and make total strangers feel like family. So no, this was not a pour decision. Coming to Italy was one of my better choices!

Click the links below to see photos and videos of my experience at Ricci Osteria!

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